Now we don’t see many Dai Pai Dongs around in Hong Kong and numbers are continuing to decrease. Today, only 25 Dai Pai Dongs remain around Hong Kong according to the licences tracked by the Food of Environmental Hygiene Department. Check out where they are looking at this map

The start of the decline came from government regulations on issuing licence for Dai pai dongs. The reason was due to lack of hygiene in these stall’s management and the street vendors causing traffic complaints. However, people also argue that Dai pai dong is a strong part of Hong Kong identity and should be protected. 

Dai pai dong is an iconic part of Hong Kong dining culture. It provides a vast array of different Hong Kong style foods. It is convenient, and quick to grab and go. Not only this but people socialised in these places. So the bustling sounds of chatters and foods being prepared was unceasing. Actually, it is the reason behind the nickname ‘ordinary people’s nightclub.’

Hear the energetic sound of Dai pai dongs. Feel the energy of Hong Kong.

The numbers of Dai pai dongs started to decrease when the government stopped giving out licences and put restrictions on licences being transferred in 1956. The popular Dai pai dongs  causing traffic complaints and unhygienic conditions were the reasons. The licences could not be passed down and inherited but only passed on to spouses after the owner died. If the owner was not married, then the licence would naturally expire. Some vendors claimed that the government administration offered money for the owners to give up the licences. 

We saw less and less Dai pai dongs, and from 1975, many changed their business locations to markets or food centres or evolved into indoor air-conditioned restaurants. The unique culture of Dai Pai Dong providing outdoor eating and conversing area was starting to diminish.

People are calling out that Dai pai dongs should be preserved and collective memory of locals should be protected. It was a place where people bonded and grabbed a quick and convenient Hong Kong style fast street food. 

Photography by Dave Greer

“It’s the real Hong Kong”

-Owen, a local living in Hong Kong since age of two

In SCMP article “Dai pai dong an endangered species in Hong Kong” a 24 year-old Owen who works in Hong Kong filming industry spoke out on this matter as a person living in Hong Kong since the age of two. “Nothing captures the spirit of Hong Kong like sitting at the table having a big meal surrounded by people. You’re sitting outside, too, between all the buildings, so it’s the real Hong Kong.” He said that he always recommend tourists to go to Dai pai dong if they seek a peek at Hong Kong culture. 

Tourists definitely don’t want to see Dai pai dongs disappearing. Dai pai dongs are popular tourist attractions included in people’s travel plans. They can experience various Hong Kong dishes. In fact, many Hong Kong travel videos highlight Dai pai dong dining. 

Oi Man Sang Dai Pai Dong Restaurant that opened in 1956 was featured in popular Korean travel shows such as ‘Street Food Fighter” and ‘Affordable Traveling’ (짠내투어). The words quickly spread and amongst tourists it is regarded as a place you must stand in line to eat. Dai pai dongs are great way for people to taste good food and at the same time experience Hong Kong identity through dining. You can see that people still love Dai pai dongs when you see numbers #daipaidong on instagram and youtube travel videos featuring them.

However, there is a mixed feelings toward Dai pai dongs. Some say that control over Dai pai dongs were needed especially due to hygiene issues.

“Heat, humidity or pollution ruining your appetite”

– Andrew Sun

In SCMP opinion piece, Andrew Sun wrote that Dai pai dong is just not worth the sweat in the summer. In his article “”Outdoor alfresco dining in Hong Kong: why would you want to do it? Especially during summer” he wrote “If it’s not the heat, humidity or pollution ruining your appetite, then it’s the bugs and mosquitoes annoyingly nibbling your ankles.” He argued that locals would rather prefer to dine out in a nice place under air conditioners. Sun said new approach should be taken, and new touches should be added to Dai pai dong culture. He suggested transforming PMQ creative hub or 1881 heritage shopping mall into food centres for Dai pai dongs.

On the other hand, Celia Hu, editor at Hong Kong’s Foodie Magazine claimed that Dai pai dongs are a big part of local daily lives, such as grabbing condensed milk-infused red tea during busy hours. Taking her quotes from the article “Hong Kong’s Dai Pai Dong Stalls Are Disappearing” she said “They think that moving forward necessitates destruction of remnants of the past.” She argued and said Dai pai dongs provide cheap dining options and shouldn’t be compromised.  

Will Dai pai dong meet its extinction? What will future will Dai pai dongs face?